Rajasthan: Roadtrip to Ranakpur

We said goodbye to the guys at Pleasant Haveli in Jaisalmer. I have to admit they are really pleasant. They didn't charge us for any of the snacks that we ordered including beer and pop. In fact one day I asked for a coke and they didn't have one, only pepsi. So I said "no thanks." Next thing I know one of the guys hops on his motorbike and drives to the fort and picks me up one - now that's service. And when we left they gave each of us flowers.

Back to the train station at 5:00pm and we were shocked to see the train already there. And not only that but they were cleaning it. Don't worry though, it took them so long to clean it that we still left 45 minutes late. Oh, and don't worry - the resident mice still made the trip with us. Tip #1: don't leave luggage unzipped on the floor. Tip #2: if you take your shoes off for the train ride check them for unwanted visitors before you put them on again.

We took the train to Jodhpur and back to Heritage Kuchaman Haveli just for an overnight. First thing in the morning we took a prearranged taxi to Ranakpur and then onto Udaipur.

The roads are quite good, with the usual near head-on collisions. Trucks carry ridiculous loads, motorbikes carry too many people and trucks and buses fly by with people hanging out the doors and windows and packed on top. Sheep are herded across and cows stand in the middle. Vehicles don't slow down - they just whip around them - and the cows don't flinch.

It took three hours to drive to Ranakpur, the site of the Jain temple. The temple is well worth visiting. It is entirely made of marble with over 1400 columns holding it up. There are statues and carvings and every bit of the temple is carved to tell a story.

The marble keeps it nice and cool inside and people sit and enjoy the calm beauty, and try to take in the history and incredible detail in every part of the temple.

The temple is surrounded by hills and is three hours on either side of Jodhpur and Udaipur so it could be a day trip from either place but we carried on to our final destination: Udaipur. Now I sound like we were on the Amazing Race...our final destination...

Jodhpur - Day 3

New Year's Day we spent walking the streets of Jodhpur. Here are some photo's of the people of Jodhpur:

Rajasthan - Jodhpur Day 2

We spent New Years Eve in Jodhpur and even managed to stay up past midnight.

During the day we got an autorickshaw to the Mehrangarh Fort. Built in the 1400's its walls are massive and there are many rooms and courtyards to see. Rooms are painted, carved, filled with mirror work and stained glass windows.

There is an excellet museum full of well displayed artefacts such as elephant howdahs for the royals to sit upon an elephant, and carved palanquins that royals would be carried around in.

There are interesting displays of armoury, swords, weapons, and paintings also. The kids loved the swords and knives especially one their Aunt and Uncle had told them about - the weapon shaped like scissors would be stabbed into the abdomen. Then, the attacker would open them like scissors to make a second cut inside. Basically the intestines would be ripped to shreads and fall out. Lovely.

There are great views of the blue city from either side of the fort and large cannons on the ramparts. We took the path and walked back to town. Each night in Jodhpur at 6:00pm we would go to the rooftop and have a beer and watch the sunset and the moonrise.

But before sunset we would hear the call-to-prayer over the loudspeaker of every mosque in town. One mosque would start and then another and then everyone of them in the entire city. It was one of those magical sounds that filled the night and we would rush back each night to hear it.

Planned to go to Pal Haveli for dinner but it was packed with tourists so we went to a smaller place next door with equally good views and adequate food. Back at our haveli we watched Mamma Mia on the laptop til just before midnight and then moved up to the rooftop for the countdown.

A beautiful, clear night with an almost full moon. As soon as midnight struck the fireworks started all around us and into the distance. The fort and palace were lit up and the fireworks lasted about twenty minutes. It was a great way to bring in the New Year.

Rajasthan - Part 2 Jodhpur

There are some pretty great things about Jodhpur. One of them being the roof-top views from Heritage Kuchaman Haveli. We went back up to the roof-top restaurant for breakfast and discovered there was yet another set of stairs leading up to higher deck. Our breathe was taken away at the sight of the city - Jodhpur, the blue city.

It is an amazing 360 degree view with the imposing Meherangarh Fort in one direction; the Unmaid Palace another; and Jaswant Thada (a mini Taj Mahal) another. The best part though, was being able to check out the rooftop living going on all around us. The stone homes, two or three levels high, all have flat open decks on top where a lot of people spend their time at this time of year - winter.

For us it is warm and wonderful, for the locals it is cold and the roof is where they go to warm up. Everything happens here. Laundry is hung to dry, children play catch, and ride tricycles. One neighbour makes clay pots and and paints wooden figures. I feel like I am spying on everyone, especially an older couple who are just sitting together. But when the woman sees me with my camera in hand I put it down and wave. She immediately smiles, gets up and points to me to take her photo. Absolutely!

Which leads me to the other great thing about Jodhpur - the people are incredibly friendly and everyone asks me to take their photo. Not only do I feel like a rock star (just because I'm white) but now I feel like a rock star photographer. As soon as we hit the streets everyone from children to adults start posing for me. And as soon as I take one photo, piles more people want theirs taken too. I actually had a rickshaw driver pull over and motion to me to take his photo.

We walked to the clock tower and the market, full of everything from fruit, veggies, and spices to clothing and turbans and bangles. We found a really good rooftop restaurant for lunch: Pal Haveli, and a good little coffee shop next door to sip espresso and watch the people go by.

The narrow streets are full of cows and donkeys and the odd camel. Some homes are colorful and nicely carved on the outside, others are decrepit inside and out. They are all lacking in material goods but full of life.

Back at our haveli for sunset and a beer on the rooftop.